How to adjust bicycle brakes
Learn how to adjust bicycle brakes at home. Simple steps for safer, stronger stopping power.
13.11.2025
Let’s keep this simple: if your brakes don’t bite, you don’t ride. Brakes lose power quietly. Cables stretch, brake pads wear, a caliper drifts a millimetre, and suddenly you’re gripping the lever to the bar and rolling straight past the junction. The good news? Most brake fixes take minutes, not hours, and you can do them at home with basic tools. That’s exactly what this guide is for.
This is written for every rider. The brand-new commuter on a Cyclescheme bike, the weekend roadie, the e-bike convert, and the “I haven’t touched bike brakes since 2009” cyclist. We’ll walk through the original steps you already know are solid (because they are), we’ll add three extra safety sections, and we’ll show you when to hand the job to a pro.
And yes, keeping your bike roadworthy is part of riding well. Organisations like Cycling UK, RoSPA and retailers like Halfords all say routine brake checks are essential for safe commuting and everyday riding. So, let’s get your stopping power back.
Test your brakes
Start with a real-world test, not guesswork.
- Stand next to the bike.
- Squeeze the front brake and push the bike forward.
- The rear wheel should lift.
- The lever shouldn’t hit the handlebar.
- Now squeeze the rear brake and push the bike forward.
- The rear wheel should skid or lock.
- Again, the lever shouldn’t reach the bar.
Do this test every few weeks or every time you notice the lever feel change.
Visual checks
Before you touch a bolt, look.
Is the brake actually on?
V-brakes have a little quick-release where the metal noodle sits in a cradle. If it’s not seated, the brake can’t pull tight. Side-pull / caliper brakes often have a tiny quick-release lever on the caliper. If that’s left open, the pads sit too far from the rim. Close everything, then re-test.
What do the brake pads look like?
You should see a decent thickness of pad, and on many pads a wear line. If you hear grinding, you may be on metal. Replace. Pads must point at the braking surface only. Not the tyre.
Is anything bent or dirty?
A kinked cable or torn outer will make braking weak or grabby. On disc brakes, look for oil or polish on the rotor, which will ruin braking. Clean with proper disc brake cleaner.
If a pad is shot, don’t adjust around it, replace it. Maintenance guides all say the same thing: worn pads = longer stopping distances.
Adjust cable tension
Most weak cable brakes just need some cable adjustment.
-
Find the barrel adjuster (the little knurled tube where the cable leaves the brake lever or enters the brake). Sometimes it’s halfway along the cable in an inline adjuster.
-
Unscrew (turn anti-clockwise) one full turn.
-
Squeeze the lever. Better?
-
Fine-tune with half-turns.
-
Screw the lockring down to hold it there.
What you’re doing: shortening the housing-to-cable distance so the brake engages earlier. Small turns make big differences with cable-based brakes, so go slowly. If you run out of barrel adjuster or need several turns, you’re ready for the next step.
Re-clamp cable
Wind the barrel adjuster all the way back in (so you’ve got future adjustment). Loosen the bolt that clamps the cable to the brake. With one hand, hold the brake on:
-
V-brake or brake caliper: press the pads gently to the rim.
-
Cable disc: push the brake arm so the pad touches the brake rotor.
With your other hand, pull the cable through until it’s just taut. Tighten the clamp bolt. Let go of the brake.
Now you should have a brake that clears the rim/rotor but bites early. If it’s a little loose, use the barrel adjuster. If it’s rubbing, repeat the process but don’t squeeze the brake quite as hard before clamping.
Centring the brake
Sometimes only one pad rubs. If so, that’s not a cable problem, it’s a centring problem.
Side-pull / caliper brakes
Look for a small screw on the side or top of the caliper. Turn slowly and watch the arms move. You’re aiming for the pads to sit an equal distance from the rim. If there’s no small screw, slacken the big caliper bolt that holds the brake to the frame or fork, nudge the brake into the centre, and retighten.
V-brakes
Each arm has a tiny screw at the bottom. Screwing in increases spring tension on that side and pulls the pad away from the rim. Unscrewing does the opposite. Adjust in half turns on each side until both pads land on the rim together.
Disc brakes
Loosen the two big bolts holding the caliper. Squeeze the brake lever hard (this centres the caliper over the rotor). While holding the lever, tighten the bolts again. Spin the wheel. If it still rubs and you have single-piston mechanical disc brakes, adjust the fixed pad (you’ll discover how next!) This little job is one of the cheapest safety wins you can do.
Pad adjustment
Pads must hit the right place.
Rim brakes (V-brake, caliper)
Loosen the pad bolt. Squeeze the brake so the pad touches the rim. Slide the pad so it’s central on the rim’s braking surface. Make sure it’s not touching the tyre. A pad rubbing the tyre can wear a hole. Tighten. Tip: angle the front of the pad very slightly in (toe-in) to reduce squeal.
Cable disc brakes
Many have one fixed pad (next to the wheel) and one moving pad. Reach through the spokes with the right Allen/Torx key. Turn clockwise to move the fixed pad towards the rotor, anti-clockwise to move it away. Set it close. You want good bite, but no rubbing. Some discs (like Avid BB7s) have nice big dials so you can adjust both pads without tools.
Keep cables, hoses and levers healthy
You can adjust forever, but if the ‘plumbing’ is tired, the brake will always feel mushy.
Cables
Frayed, rusty, or gritty brake cables add drag and reduce power. Replace them. They’re cheap. If the outer cable housing is cracked or crushed, replace that too.
Hydraulic hoses
If you see fluid, bulges, or damage, don’t ride it. Get it fixed. Spongy lever on hydraulics often equals air in the line. That’s a bleed job, so we recommend it’s one of the jobs many riders sensibly give to a shop.
Levers
Lever should pivot freely and spring back. If the lever hits the bar before you stop, go back to cable tension or get the hydraulics bled. Keeping the control bits in good nick is especially important for e-bikes as they’re heavier, go faster, and need consistent braking.
Check rims, rotors and wheels for issues
Sometimes the brake is fine. It’s the thing it’s trying to grab that’s the issue.
Wheel rims
A big dent or wobble will make pads grab once per wheel turn. Get the wheel trued. Worn-out brake surfaces (common on old commuter wheels) are unsafe so replace the rim/wheel.
Rotors
Oily, glazed or warped rotors squeal and reduce power. Clean with proper disc brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, not WD-40. Badly bent rotors can sometimes be straightened, but it’s often quicker to replace.
Wheel fit
Make sure the wheel is fully seated in the dropouts and the thru-axle or QR is tight. A wonky wheel equals a rubby brake. A smooth, true, clean braking surface makes every other adjustment work better.
When to ask a local bikeshop to step in
You’re in charge of stopping. If you’re not 100% sure, call in help for your brake maintenance.Hand it over if:
-
You have hydraulic brakes that feel spongy or pull to the bar
-
A piston on a disc brake is stuck and won’t retract
-
You can’t get rid of rotor rub even after centring
-
You can see fluid, cracks or damage
-
You’ve adjusted everything and it still won’t stop
Shops fix braking issues day in, day out. They have bike maintenance stands, bleed kits, rotor truing tools, torque wrenches and the experience to spot a hidden problem. It’s not a failure to let a pro keep you safe. It’s smart. Here’s a list of trusted Cyclescheme retailers.
And finally…
Squeeze the brakes hard a few times. Re-test like you did at the start. Spin the wheels and listen for rub.
-
If it’s good, ride
-
If it’s nearly, fine-tune
-
If it still isn’t right, head to the bike shop
And remember, a good brake system makes everyday cycling, including cycle-to-work journeys, safer and calmer. That’s why at Cyclescheme we always tell riders: do the little checks often, not the big repairs rarely.
FAQs: how to adjust bicycle brakes
How often should I check my bicycle brakes?
Give them a quick test (squeeze and roll) every week you ride, and a fuller check monthly. If you ride daily, especially in winter, check your braking systems more often because water and grit speed up pad and cable wear.
Do I adjust front and rear brakes the same way?
Mostly, yes. The steps for cable tension, centring and pad position are the same. But set the front so it bites firmly without feeling grabby, because the front does most of the stopping.
Should bicycle brakes rub slightly?
No. A tiny “shhh” once per wheel turn after riding in the wet can happen, but your normal setup should spin freely. Persistent rub means that recentring or re-clamping is needed.
Can I use WD-40 on my bicycle brakes?
Don’t spray lubricants on braking surfaces (rims or rotors) as it will destroy braking. Use proper disc brake cleaner on rotors and plain soapy water on rims.
What tools do I need to adjust bicycle brakes at home?
A set of Allen keys, a cross-head screwdriver (for spring screws), sometimes a 10mm spanner for older brakes, and a clean rag. An allen wrench is nice but not essential for basic cable-brake setup.
Are disc brakes harder to adjust than rim brakes?
Mechanical discs are similar to rim brakes once you understand the fixed/moving pad. Hydraulic discs are harder because they may need bleeding. That’s where many riders go to a shop.
Can kids’ bikes and e-bikes be adjusted the same way?
Yes, the principles are the same, but be extra careful on heavier e-bikes as they need strong, well-serviced brakes. And make sure a child can reach and pull the lever comfortably.
My brakes squeal after rain. Are they unsafe?
Not usually. Wet rims and rotors can squeal. Brake gently to dry them, then test braking power in a safe area. If squeal continues, clean the braking surface and check pad alignment.
How long should a brake adjustment take?
Once you’ve done it a couple of times, 5-10 minutes. Don’t rush, braking is a safety system.
Will better bike maintenance help with winter riding safety?
Yes. 2024-25 UK road-safety advice for cyclists all says the same thing: good visibility and good brakes reduce risk. Keeping brakes clean and well-adjusted helps you stop sooner in cold, wet conditions.
